surfkix
surfkix:

"One day I crashed onto the reef and fell unconscious underwater. I was tossed around between the surf and the coral like I was in a washing machine. You know that feeling you get in the morning when the alarm clock goes off and you’re so tired you keep pushing the snooze button? It was like that. I remember thinking that I needed to start swimming but I just didn’t have the energy and kept dozing off. It seemed like a long time, but I was probably only drifting underwater for about 15 seconds before I finally tried to breathe, lost my bearings and swallowed water. That woke me up real quick." - Jack Johnson. As of now, I could say that this is the best article I’ve ever read. 

surfkix:

"One day I crashed onto the reef and fell unconscious underwater. I was tossed around between the surf and the coral like I was in a washing machine. You know that feeling you get in the morning when the alarm clock goes off and you’re so tired you keep pushing the snooze button? It was like that. I remember thinking that I needed to start swimming but I just didn’t have the energy and kept dozing off. It seemed like a long time, but I was probably only drifting underwater for about 15 seconds before I finally tried to breathe, lost my bearings and swallowed water. That woke me up real quick." - Jack Johnson. As of now, I could say that this is the best article I’ve ever read.